Lizzie Wood - Freelance Journalist

Sangdao Thai Restaurant and Spa - Saffron Walden

'The genuinely relaxing Thai atmosphere is created primarily by intricately ornate and obviously original wooden carvings that literally fill the large dining space inside and strike you by their sheer size as you're ushered to your table'

Walking past the restaurant's large, black and gilt framed windows on the outskirts of Saffron Walden, you would be forgiven for not giving the Sangdao Thai Restaurant and Spa a second glance.

The restaurant hugs a busy roundabout, and is nestled between two popular Chinese and Indian restaurants. Whereas here the windows offer a view into two busy venues, with diners filling tables and enjoying their meals, the view to the inside of the Sangdao is completely masked by floor-to-ceiling vines that fill the T
glass windows and shield from view the tropical paradise that has been created inside. Nevertheless, the Sangdao's fearsome reputation amongst the local Thai restaurants - enhanced by its popular Sister restaurant in Newmarket - means that the establishment is rarely empty, and capturing the attention of passing trade is perhaps not crucial.

Having visited the Sangdao in Saffron Walden some years before, we were prepared for the beautiful serenity that pervades inside. On more than one occasion, we found ourselves using the word 'exquisite': firstly for the genuinely relaxing Thai atmosphere, which is created primarily by intricately ornate and obviously original wooden carvings that literally fill the large dining space inside and strike you by their sheer size as you're ushered to your table. The climbing plants that fill the windows both shield you from onlookers and add to the exotic tropical paradise; and maybe it was my imagination, but somewhere you can hear the soothing trickling of water.

The food was equally exquisite, making excellent use of Thai ingredients, herbs and spices, with dishes full of the flavours of Thailand: coconut, lemon grass, Thai basil and ginger. The menu has certainly undergone some considerable editing, and the choice could now be considered select, but there is no disputing the quality of the food. You can chose between vegetable, beef, seafood, pork, duck and chicken dishes.

Thankfully, the popular mixed starter has survived the menu's cull, and serves as an excellent introduction to Thai food and flavours if you're not a seasoned expert. The bronze bowl, piled with lightly spiced chicken, prawn and sesame toast, lightly stuffed spring rolls and crispy rice noodles is accompanied by a selection of sauces, including soy, chilli, plum and cucumber pickle. It's fun to see which sauce best suits each starter!

Maybe it was our choice of dish, but chillies are also a popular Thai ingredient, and bursts of heat from fierce Birdseye chillies stabbed through the otherwise mild, delicately flavoured Gaeng ped pet yang, which is an unusual but brilliant combination of succulent duck, lychees and pineapple. The Neua pad prik, or chilli beef, was equally spicy, the beef complimented by fresh vegetables and a rounded sauce, both enjoyed with fragrant rice.

In an increasingly competitive market, the Sangdao stands out as an 'exquisite' Thai restaurant, offering traditional ambience, service and cuisine. It's a venue and evening to be savoured, and comes highly recommended.