Lizzie Wood - Freelance Journalist

Carriages Restaurant and Wine Bar - Newmarket

'As part of the Rutland Arms, Carriages has fought hard not to be classed as a typical hotel restaurant, and it's succeeded - the only hint of hotel is the overly fussy carpet that would look out of place anywhere else'

It's hard not to visit a restaurant without certain expectations. Be it the local reputation, legendary location or infamous menu; a combination of these variables always seems to leave you with a conviction of the experience you're about to have. However, there is always something unforeseen - guaranteed.

Carriages announced themselves on the Newmarket restaurant scene in 2008 with an exclusive opening night and an equally impressive façade. Built into the side of the Rutland Arms Hotel's grand Georgian building, it was already off to a good start - the floor to ceiling glass doors elevated above street level make for a striking entrance, set against the rustic brick work. The glass also serves to provide you with a good glimpse into the venue, as you walk along Newmarket's High Street: an informal wine bar on the right, separated from restaurant on the left.

As part of the Rutland Arms, Carriages has fought hard not to be classed as a typical hotel restaurant, and it's succeeded - the only hint of hotel is the overly fussy carpet that would look out of place anywhere else. The wine bar is dressed stylishly, with dark, solid tables and classy sofas in a mix of complementary colours providing an elegant space to enjoy the variety of wine's decorating the menu. The restaurant is equally tasteful, with tables arranged so as to encourage privacy, and striking artwork filling the expansive walls. It's certainly more exclusive haunt than hotel restaurant.

With both taste and style, you'd undoubtedly expect a hefty price tag on what is a nicely rounded menu offering a balancing selection of British and European starters and main courses. Not a bit of it. The prices are on the cheaper side of reasonable and the quality exceptional with fresh ingredients and preparation. It was hard to chose, but we enjoyed a wholesome and flavoursome duck parfait, carefully wrapped in Parma ham and served with garlic-toasted crostini, together with delicate fish cakes, lamb shank slow roasted to perfection, and wonderfully sticky, glazed duck fillets. Both the menu and the food were gratifyingly lacking in pretention, served simply and presented beautifully.

Perhaps as with any new restaurant, the service was somewhat confused, and although friendly and enthusiastic, we waited longer than we'd like for our table, menus and bill. However, this is par for the course and, given time, no doubt the service will mimic that enjoyed in the restaurant's sister Hotel. For now, simply enjoy the relaxed ambience, and the excellent food.