Morellos' - Newmarket

'Tucked away behind the High Street, in an unassuming, humble side alley, is Morellos': Newmarket's answer to the fine dining conundrum.'

Fine dining in the Newmarket area has, historically, always involved a car journey, either into Cambridge or to one of the surrounding Suffolk towns and villages. It's not that Newmarket is short of places to eat: hotels, pubs and restaurants there are plenty of - you only need to take a walk down the High Street to find something suitable - feeding the many race goers and the public alike. None, however, seem to offer you the perfect venue for that special evening, where you know you have to book in advance, and look forward to a quality of food that is beyond your own skill.

Tucked away behind the High Street, in an unassuming, humble side alley, is Morellos': Newmarket's answer to the fine dining conundrum. Clean, sleekly dressed windows allow you only a glimpse of the stylish interior, and the black and white elegance of the restaurant's exterior looks almost out of place in an otherwise drab street. The elegance continues inside, where striking ruby walls, exposed brick work and subtle lighting set off the chic white clothed tables and chairs to dramatic effect - in my mind, it's exactly what I want my dining room to look like.

The restaurant itself has a somewhat infamous reputation in Newmarket as it was founded, and recently sold, by celebrity chef Steven Saunders. His exit is another's opportunity, and the two new owners, both of whom have worked under Steven, have certainly made their own mark on the venue.

The menu is short - which may or may not be to your taste. For me, there was sufficient selection to make it commendable, and I was able to choose courses that complemented each other in a way that makes you think the menu has been thought through and understood. The food itself is executed impeccably. And so it should be: the chef has formerly made her living cooking for royalty.

Presented on clean white plates, the food is more a work of art than a meal, although the generous portions do not leave you unsatisfied. The warm bean salad, served with sun blushed tomatoes and roquette, has a sharp dressing that cuts through notoriously bland broad beans, and the seared beef - also a starter - was cooked, and sliced, to perfection. As was the considerable Aberdeen Angus steak, which did just melt-in-the-mouth, and was served sitting on a rich wild mushroom and pearl barley broth. The food was seasonal and warming, and comprised of the finest ingredients.

Neither could the service be faulted: perhaps it was because it was a quiet night, but the staff seemed to know what I wanted before I even thought about catching their attention.

Where Saunders failed, Morellos' deserves to succeed, and I hope that more people will find themselves veering away from the High Street restaurants. In a region where fine dining options are restricted, Morellos' brings a much needed, and recommended, alternative.