| The Lake District
Cumrbia, UK
It was the drive that was the sticking point when I confidently raised my plans for a long weekend in the Lakes at the end of what has proved a pretty unspectacular summer: "A seven hour journey? Just think where we could fly to in seven hours!?" was the somewhat incredulous reaction. Believe me, it's worth it was my quick-fire, equally assured reply.
With the inevitable winter weather approaching, not-to-mention the escalating credit crunch and its consequences on our purse strings, we're constantly looking for ways to extend that heady holiday-feeling, without breaking the bank. Despite the drive, nestled in its own pocket of the North West, a trip to the Lake District is well worth it, and makes for a perfect weekend destination. And I should know, having been dragged, pushed, cajoled and sometimes even bribed up what seems like every one of the region's ruggedly beautiful mountains during my childhood, be they quilted in muddy, well-trodden snow, shrouded in autumn leaves, or flowing with seasonal Summer rain.
It's been at least six years since I last visited the Lake District, but it still has a compelling draw. As you drive North of Manchester, Cumbria's solid shadow seems to cast a quiet calm over the motorway, and the mood changes. Leaving the M6 and, coming from East Anglia, you need to be prepared for surprisingly steep, slender roads; it's hard to concentrate, however, as your eyes are wrenched to the mountainous backdrop - eerily dark in the cloud or early night, and unspeakably beautiful in the sunshine. There's no where else quite like it - a contained and beautiful part of England that is full of fresh air and activity and as different from home as another country could be.
Not quite brave enough to trust the shelter of a tent and put off by an all too recent, blustery weekend spent camping in the Peak District, cut short by inadequate equipment, we had opted to stay in the guaranteed protection of, firstly, a Bed and Breakfast in the South of the Lakes, before heading to a rented cottage in Buttermere for the rest of the weekend. Driven by childhood memories, I was keen to show off a part of the country I love, and Coniston seemed like a good starting point.
Watched over by The Old Man of Coniston, which looms a dramatic 2635 ft above the village made famous by Donald Campbell's fatal water speed record attempt, and John Ruskin before him, it can, like the rest of the Lake District, seem a sinister place when shrouded in cloud. However, the 400 year old Black Bull Inn, not to mention its award winning, locally brewed Bluebird Bitter, make for a good alternative to scaling the giddy heights of Coniston Old Man.
Aside from the pub, Coniston makes for an excellent base, from which to explore the area's two main assets: lakes and mountains. From here, it's a short and, as always, beautiful hop across to Ambleside, which sits on the fringe of Lake Windermere in all its water sporting glory. Ethswaite Water and Grasmere - inspiration to Wordsworth - are also nearby, although it's worth staying closer to home, and taking a ride on the ferry that steadily traverses Lake Coniston, stopping at each jetty to collect weary walkers on their way home.
Heading north toward Buttermere, the density of the mountains increases, as does the Lake District's beauty and wilderness. As an introduction to fell walking, we chose to scale Cat Bells, which offers, I was told by our B+B owner, "the best view in the whole of the Lakes". Loved by Wainwright and, his greatest advocate, my Father alike, Cat Bells is a comparatively small, although incredibly steep, mountain, set on the side of Derwent Water: you'll find yourself stopping for breath more often than you need, to enjoy the breathtaking view acorss Keswick, an impressive mountain range behind, including the ominous Skiddaw and Blencathra, not to mention Derwent water, dissected by the wake left by wooden ferries, and punctuated by small, vegetated islands, home to Beatrix Potter's Squirrel Nutkin.
Buttermere itself is protected by mountains and hanging valleys, and you'll need to drive through one of two equally steep passes - Honister Pass littered with erratics and patterned with drumlins - to reach the tiny hamlet. Buttermere lake is one of the smallest, and circumnavigating it is a great way to pass a morning, taking in hay making and spectacular waterfalls; there are also plenty of mountains to summit, with Wainwright's favourite - Haystacks - cutting a unique and easily identifiable silhoutte above the lake.
Wherever you base yourself, you will find natural beauty, and plenty to explore in the great outdoors. But whatever you do, don't let the drive put you off... after all, you could always take the train!
|
