| More to Cephalonia than Captain
Corelli
When you fall in love with a book, you have the luxury of
creating in your imagination not only the face and expression
of each character, but also the landscape and environment
in which they live. Louis de Bernières' touching insight
into the romantic complications of war-time invasion in the
1940s in Captain Corelli’s Mandolin, set in the sleepy
hills of Cephalonia, captured the imagination of many, and
awoke a universal desire to travel to this tranquil and beautiful
Ionian island.
Since 2001, with the release of the novel’s film adaption
acting as the perfect showcase for the island’s crystal
waters and breathtaking mountain backdrop, the unhurried trickle
of tourism has increased to a more constant and frantic stream
– and by July each year the abundant bars and expansive
beaches are now bound to be crowded with sun-tanned visitors.
But there’s more to the island than Captain Antonio
Corelli, and it’s testament to the islanders that they
have not allowed the book, or the influx of holiday-makers,
to overtake them – the only reminder is the occasional
tourist leafing through a dog eared, sun-bleached copy on
the beach; and you’ll have to travel to Sami to find
the island’s only restaurant that takes the book for
its namesake.
As Greek islands go, Cephalonia
is large, and with tantalisingly narrow, often mountainous
roads, you will need at least a week and a hire car to explore
the entire island. However, despite its size, the island’s
towns and villages are never more than a cluster of higgledy-piggledy
restaurants and apartments emerging from lush green Mediterranean
vegetation, either clinging to the cliff side or hugging the
shoreline, decorated with beautiful pink bougainvillea and
dripping with immature vines. It’s certainly no Faliraki,
and one of very few Greek islands with no discos or Club 18-30:
if you want to escape the British Stag, then this is the ideal
destination.
With tour operators dominating
both the island’s flights and accommodation, you’ll
probably find yourself staying in one of only a few tourist
hubs, the largest and most self-contained being Lassi, a short
drive from the airport, and an even shorter taxi drive to
the island’s quiet capital of Argostoli, which takes
top place on the island’s must-see list. Other popular
destinations include Lourdas, which boasts a sparkling, white-pebbled
coastline, and Skala, where you’ll find perhaps the
clearest seas in the Greek Islands, and consequently the best
snorkelling.
Independent travelling is somewhat
difficult in Cephalonia as public transport is desperately
lacking, with a restrictive and typically laid-back bus timetable.
However, if you do want to strike out on your own, it’s
certainly possible to do so – just be sure to arrive
half an hour before your bus is due to leave, otherwise you
could easily find yourself abandoned and facing either an
expensive taxi ride, or a 24hr wait for the next bus. All
the tour operators offer weekly excursions, and if for no
other reason, it’s worth checking these out to identify
the island’s must see attractions.
Given the scale of devastation
following the 1953 earthquake, you will have to travel to
Fiskardo, at the very north of the island to experience the
beautiful Venetian architecture enjoyed by Corelli and Lord
Byron alike. Here, a chocolate box selection of buildings
softened by vines fringe the busy harbour, cafes and restaurants
spilling out onto the cobbled streets and mixing with the
sailors and holiday makers.
It’s easy to lose a day travelling
north, stopping at some of the island’s other attractions.
Just south of Fiskardo, and a death defying drive down hairpin
bends towards sea-level, lies Assos, a historically rich and
incredibly beautiful harbour from where you can look up in
awe at the stream of confident bus-drivers manoeuvring their
coaches down into the town.
Still further south, and you’ll
find Myrtos – frequently referred to as one of the world’s
top ten beaches, and the most photographed spot in the whole
of Greece…it’s easy to see why, as the sun shines
through the turquoise sea and bounces off the white sand of
this idyllic horseshoe beach, sheltered by dramatic, limestone
cliffs.
Cephalonia is undoubtedly full
of natural beauty and an easy tranquillity, but it’s
the people that should really be enjoyed – their hospitality
to the tourists should be applauded, and their cooking skills
rewarded! It’s impossible to visit the island without
sampling some of the local dishes, which include a meat pie
laced with cinnamon, rich, oven baked aubergines, light mezze
best enjoyed with Ouzo and, of course, moussaka.
It may not be a secret anymore,
but Cephalonia is still a jewel amongst the Greek islands.
Whereas the film may have disappointed Captain Corelli fans
worldwide, the island itself will not.
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