Lizzie Wood - Freelance Journalist

When in Rome, discover the Pontines

'Do as the Romans do, and head for the Pontine Islands as the city heats up'

Through the spray of sea water, thrown up like pebbles by the angle and speed of the hydrofoil, I caught a glimpse of a chain of gulls. They seemed to hang in the air, just out of reach of the sea and the boat, taking advantage of our slipstream. The Italian coastline had faded from view over half an hour ago and now, striking, volcanic islands started to erupt from the turquoise water. Small and scattered, the islands seemed home only to steep cliffs and vibrant vegetation, rock plummeting down toward the Tyrrhenian Sea, leaving no room for beaches. The gulls left us as the boat slowed, angling its nose back down toward sea level, and Ponza Town’s pastel terraced harbour calmly slipped into view – a quietly inhabited island in amongst its seven smaller neighbours.

We’d left Rome as soon as its history and heat had become too much. Overwhelmed by its rich tapestry of ruins, beautiful fountains and dynamic, animated conversations, we’d decided to do as the Romans do and head to the Pontine archipelago for some respite in the heat of the summer. Considering the ease at which Ponza is accessed from Rome – a short and economical train ride takes you first to Anzio, and from here the hydrofoil service will deliver you to Ponza’s harbour – it’s gratifyingly undiscovered by foreign tourists, visited only by the Roman and Neapolitan elite – a summer hang out for those escaping the tourists in their home town.

Five miles long and curved into a slender crescent, Ponza is the largest of the dramatic Pontine islands that lie 30 miles off the Italian mainland. It’s a chaotic island, with cultivated terraces clinging on to the precipitous, volcanic cliffs, faded paintwork and abrupt bends in the sheer, cobbled streets linking one remote town to another. Crystal clear, deep and cool water occupies the many bays and inlets that are inaccessible by land, navigable by boat, and the island’s occupants are split between the mainland and the sea, many preferring to inhabit extravagant yachts, which form a fringe around the island.

Tourist information on Ponza is hard to come by, and we had relied on Italian friends to translate and secure our accommodation on the island. The locals, however, seem alert to the hydrofoil’s timetable and its potential to deposit the occasional tourist from the mainland. As we disembarked, clusters of deeply tanned, weathered locals bordered the jetty, ready to help with bags, and direct you along one of the town’s pretty whitewashed alleys toward hidden hotels and apartments. Our own arrival was welcomed by our landlord, Musella, reclining over his balcony above the harbour and waving at us with fervour – we must have stood out.

It’s easy to lose track of days exploring Ponza’s stunning coastline and the few settlements that find space to exist on the island. At its hub is Ponza Town, a panoramic amphitheatre lined with fishing boats, and the point of arrival for most people on the island. A regular ferry takes you from the town to the nearest pebbled beach, where a whole day can be lost exploring the underwater world, gazing up at the dwellings carved into the cliff face, and enjoying the sun, before returning to enjoy freshly caught squid, lobster or prawns, cooked quickly in al dente pasta, and served in one of the town’s many restaurants.

The laid back bus service and steepness of the island’s roads make discovering anywhere on land a difficult task, and perhaps the best way to see Ponza is by boat. Leaving Ponza and the spectacular Chaia di Luna beach, which carves a half moon cove out of the volcanic cliffs, organised tourist boats can take you to Palmarola, Ponza’s smaller, uninhabited, but no lesser neighbour, which enjoys a simply breathtaking coastline. Moored in the shadows of La Cattedrale - a dramatic cascade of rock turrets so called by the locals due to its resemblance to Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia – the captain served us with steaming pasta, fresh tuna and surprisingly refreshing glasses of sharp, local white wine.

Ponza is certainly not an island for those seeking expansive, sandy beaches, nor for those unwilling to invest in the Italian language – very few people speak English and for us it was more a case of energetic charades than fluid conversation – and the hike in both prices and population between July and September can make the archipelago restrictive. However, it is an island of extravagance – both in its natural beauty and in the generosity of its people – just waiting to be discovered.

You can fly direct to Rome from Stansted. Trains to Anzio leave from Rome’s Termini Station, and the Vetor Hydrofoil service to Ponza operates regularly throughout the summer months. You can find more information and book tickets on www.vetor.it.