| Day tripping: Spend this
Bank Holiday on the South Bank
'Easter's come early this year, so why not make the most
of the spring, and take a day trip to London this Bank Holiday.
In the first of a series of future articles on day trips,
Lizzy Wood guides you along the attractions of London's South
Bank.'
From inside the capsule, with the low spring sun beating against
the glass and the reassuringly slow, almost unperceivable
motion elevating you high above ground level, you are privy
to one of the greatest cityscapes in the world. Beneath, strangers
relax on benches, or simply sit on the grass of Jubilee Gardens,
some watching the street performers who are trying hard to
stand still as toddlers pull their arms in the hope of a smile
at least. Others walk purposefully across Westminster Bridge,
stopping occasionally to watch the boats drift hastily along
the Thames in high tide, or sit in the open top buses that
whisk them from Parliament to Downing Street.
As your capsule on the London Eye
moves steadily higher, the view opens up further, and you
can now look down on the historic skyline, catching a glimpse
of well known landmarks from an angle that’s less familiar.
Westminster Bridge draws your eye firstly towards Big Ben
and the Houses of Parliament, which cast imposing shadows
across the Thames, and then on to the tree-fringed Mall, Buckingham
Palace and, turning to the North, St Paul’s Cathedral,
and the unexpected shape of The Gherkin.
London’s South Bank has a
turbulent history of regeneration. The region originally developed
from an obsolete area of marshland and slum dwellings, to
a manufacturing epicentre overthrown by the emergence of steam
trains. Post-war revival was heralded by the Festival of Britain
in 1951, and the South Bank now encompasses remarkable architecture
and culture, and is home to some of the nation’s finest
centres for art and theatre. Today, the eclectic mix of exhibitions,
shows, films and free events, set against the striking backdrop
of riverside London, makes the South Bank a perfect destination
for a daytrip.
What to see?
There’s a wealth of choice when it comes to spending
a day along the South Bank, so do your research and plan your
day in advance. Although the London Eye is England’s
most popular paid-for attraction, there is also plenty to
do that won’t cost a penny. However, if your budget
stretches to the whole family, the views on a clear day make
this an exceptional experience. The inspiration for the wheel
came from “The perfect symmetry of a circle which -
from a distance - seems to be transparent, embodies the passages
of time” and its construction brought together architects,
designers and engineers from across Europe in order to achieve
this vision. Once the 2,100 tonne structure had been transported
via the Thames, the London Eye was opened eight years ago,
in March 2000 as part of the Millennium celebrations, standing
135m above the ground and, until February this year, was the
world’s tallest observation wheel – on a good
day, you can enjoy views that stretch 40km into the distance.
The London Aquarium flanks the
Eye, and offers one of Europe’s largest displays of
aquatic life including Sand tiger, Brown, Nurse and Zebra
sharks. Impressively, you don’t have to pay to take
part in the action: the aquarium offers free demonstrations
throughout the week, and you can witness teams of divers feeding
rays and native British Sharks in the main Atlantic Tank between
12 and 12.30 on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays.
Stepping away from Riverside Walk
at Waterloo bridge takes you to Upper Ground, where you can
witness London’s most impressive open-air art gallery.
Here, sixty-six decorative banners have been designed by architects
Lifschutz Davidson – also responsible for the Golden
Jubilee Bridges – and inspired by the 1951 Festival
of Britain, which itself initiated the area’s post-war
regeneration. Illuminated at night, the banners bring colour
to the causeway, formerly known as The Narrow Wall, which
has its foundations in the Middle Ages, having been built
as an artificial bank to constrain the Thames.
As you journey further north, South
Bank becomes Bankside, and here sits Tate Modern. You can
immediately see the architectural connection between the arresting
converted power station and Cambridge’s University Library,
both designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott. The Tate houses
the enviable British collection of International modern art,
including classics such as Andy Warhol, Damien Hirst and Henri
Matisse, but it is the expansive turbine hall that has piqued
the imagination of artists and visitors alike since it opened
in May 2000 – Doris Salcedo’s Shibboleth currently
cuts an astonishing crevice along the 152m length of the hall.
Here also, you can take the elevator
to the seventh floor and enjoy an exquisite meal overlooking
St Paul’s Cathedral – however, if you want a window
seat, make sure you book in advance, and specify ‘riverside’!
If fine city dining is not your style, there are plenty of
restaurants, cafés and bars located on the South Bank,
just continue your stroll along Riverside Walk and wait until
something takes your fancy.
How to get there?
London's South Bank is a short and beautiful walk from Covent
Garden, taking you through the heart of London's theatre district,
across the Strand, and along Embankment to the Golden Jubilee
Bridges. Covent Garden is accessible from either London King's
Cross via the Piccadilly line, or Liverpool Street via Central,
changing at Holborn. Direct trains leave Cambridge on a regular
basis to both King's Cross and Liverpool Street, but it's
worth trying to catch the non-stop service, which takes under
an hour to reach the capital and leaves at quarter past, and
quarter to the hour. Cheap weekday return fares can be picked
up if you travel after 10.00am and return either before or
after the rush-hour - and make sure you keep hold of your
ticket, as you now need it to get out of the train station
at both King's Cross and Liverpool Street.
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RELATED LINKS
London's
South Bank
Tate
Modern
London
Eye
London
Aquarium
Photographs Copyright Lizzie
Wood
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